Last March 24 I went to Paris for a long weekend to celebrate the birthday of a friend of ours from the United States as it is now a tradition every year. It gives us the excuse to see each other and to travel to a different place each year.
As I said this year it was Paris also because there was a fantastic exhibition of the artwork of Mark Rothko, an American painter and sculptor which I discovered with great interest. The exhibition was held at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Bois the Boulogne, which I recommend to visit if you are in Paris as there are always fantastic exhibitions. Now for example (ndr April 25) there is a David Hockney one not to be missed.
As I have been in Paris so many times I always get asked for suggestions on restaurants and hotels. It is not easy because Paris offers everything in big numbers so I decided to focus on my favorites and the ones I know better.
Take the following as a recommended list from a friend, not as a kind of guide 😊
MY FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS
Chef Alain Pégouret (who is also a friend) inherited his love of precise, painstaking work from Joël Robuchon. For a first-hand taste of his craftsmanship, you only have to enter Le Sergent Recruteur, a historic tavern on Île Saint-Louis that has morphed into a fine dining establishment. The former chef of the Laurent displays an impressive command of his craft. His delicate dishes abound with crisp flavors – you can taste his solid classical foundations – and linger in the memory thanks to their coherence, the sophistication of the jus and sauces (illustrated by the Périgeux sauce that flanks the egg and black truffle mousseline or the royale sauce that is paired with hare in season and squid all year round), and their spot-on cooking. This establishment exudes a hushed, elegant vibe that artfully blends contemporary design and historic walls. (Credits to Guide Michelin)
Kunitoraya, my favourite japanese restaurant
Located near Rue St Anne (where Japanese restaurants are 99%), it is worth the trip to Paris alone. Outside, the attractive timber façade has a Japanese feel. Inside, you’ll find an old zinc counter, Paris Métro-style tiling, mirrors, wood paneling and moldings, and two large bar tables built of solid wood. In this chic setting with a vintage feel, chef Nomoto – a pioneer of udon restaurants in France – serves up a range of top-notch yakitori, particularly chicken. Cordial, well-paced service and a great list of sake. I never miss a dinner here whenever I am in Paris and through many years I was never disappointed. They also have a cheaper option on the corner of the street specialized in udon.
Allard the Parisian bistrot since 1932
In the heart of bustling Saint Germain des Près, this authentic Parisian bistro, dripping in charm and now part of the Ducasse empire, has changed very little since it opened in 1932. The culinary score wavers between bistro fare and heroic brasserie staples: snails in parsley, butter and garlic, pâté en croûte, sole meunière, profiteroles. Attractive lunchtime menu. I discovered it years ago but it is always a pleasure to go back and it is very convenient if your hotel is in Saint Germain. Add to this that I adore snails so you can understand why I like the place.
Located in the heart of the capital, across from the Tuileries Gardens, Chez Flottes is a family-run Art Nouveau brasserie. The decor is enchanting, with stained-glass windows, woodwork, and subdued lighting creating a cozy and intimate atmosphere. Here, you’ll find traditional French brasserie cuisine, from pink radishes and salted butter to Petrossian Baeri Royal caviar. The menu will satisfy every craving and appetite. They offer salads, croque-monsieurs, and a selection of meats, fish, and pasta dishes of proven quality. But the reason I go there is that they have fantastic shellfish platters including oysters, crab (which I personally adore) and lobster. Being a brasserie it is not super formal even if it is very refined in its kind.
WHERE I LIKE TO STAY
Hotel Des Saint Peres, in vibrant Saint Germain des Prés
Built in 1658 by Louis XIV’s royal architect, the hotel’s classical facade offers a calm contrast to the hustle and bustle of the street. Popular with artists past and present, such as painter Francis Bacon, singer and actress Juliette Greco, pianist Alfred Brendel, and fashion designer Tom Ford, this establishments is filled with unsuspected treasures. Sculpted pediments, bas-reliefs, exposed beams, statues, and frescoes all add to the building’s architectural character. In the bedrooms, 17th- and 18th-century paintings and engravings adorn the walls, making each space unique. The windows open onto a peaceful, tree-planted patio, inviting you to enjoy some time to yourself, let your mind wander, read, or relax after a day of sightseeing.
Located in the heart of this lively, historic Parisian neighborhood, the Hôtel des Saints Pères is right by art galleries, designer boutiques, the Ecole des Beaux-Arts, the Delacroix Museum, the Odéon Theatre, and the Bon Marché department store. From elegant fashion to a wealth of culture and breaks on the terrace, you can enjoy the finest Paris has to offer.
Hotel Pas de Calais – Saint Germain des Prés
Enjoy the calm and discretion of a decor that combines modernity and classicism. Family-owned for four generations, the Hôtel Pas de Calais is a haven of peace where excellence meets comfort and the originality of a unique decor. The veranda and its green wall is a perfect place to enjoy a drink (or more) in peace and quiet. The rooms are nice even if a bit small, but this is the same in all central ancient hotels, even if refreshed. I have been here several times and I really appreciated it and its location, with nice restaurants and shops nearby and very good connections to other parts of Paris.
Hotel Therese, near the Palais Royale et l’Opera
A truly Parisian atmosphere awaits you here. This owner-run boutique-hotel is committed to meeting guests’ wishes and requirements with, thoughtful, considerate service and attention to detail. Whether you’re travelling as a family or on business, they offer genuine hospitality, in an 18th-century building situated in what was once known as the “Rue du Hasard” (Gamblers’ Row), on account of the thoroughfare’s many gaming houses. The street was then renamed after Queen Marie-Thérèse, the wife of Louis XIV. It is conveniently located near the Palais Royale, the Louvre, the Opera and all the most renewed shopping areas like Rue Saint-Honoré.
SHOPPING
Paris, we know, is a shopping paradise. But there is so much on the shelf that it is not easy to give a selection. So as I have been shopping in Paris for such a long time, I have thought to give you some ideas of my favorite areas.
First comes Saint Germain des Prés. Not only on the boulevard, but in the lateral small roads you can find lot of small shops offering very original items, for all pockets and tastes. Rue du Dragon, Rue Madame, Rue du Four, Rue du Vieux Colombier (where by the way you can find Poilane, the best bakery for bread, Danish and biscuits) and Rue de Sèvres. Here I recommend you visit Le Bon Marché, a luxury department store where they sell all luxury brands but also trendy new ones and niche products. They also have a fantastic “épicerie”, selling the best selection of food from all over the world.
Second is le Marais and all the roads around itand starting from Plas des Vosges: Rue des Francs Bourgeois, Rue des Rosiers, Rue du Temple and all the other ones nearby. Here you just get lost and explore, tasting some of the best falafel in the world. Nearby I suggest to visit the Marche des enfants rouges, the oldest food market in Paris, where to eat very special street food including exotic one.
The other shopping areas are I would say obvious like Champs Elysées and the famous Rue Saint Honoré and Rue Cambon, Avenue Montaigne, and all the other well known to all.
A last suggestion. Get inspired reading the book La Parisienne – by Ines de La Fressange. She is a fashion guru and in the book there are good suggestions both for shopping and restaurants.
At this point I think you have enough for a first trip, but if not ask me for more. I will keep you updated on newcomers. Enjoy Paris!